Today was a day of two very distinct halves: the first, a long climb up the Glen Coe valley and over the high ground of the Grampian Mountains; and the second a long but less demanding ride along the full length of Loch Lomond. From fourteen years ago I recall the Loch being relatively flat and easy, although it was at the start of the day. The Grampians on the other hand were a bit of a problem and we ended up having to be collected and driven to our accommodation as the day was getting late. Because I am heading in the opposite direction this time I think I am better served by the day’s profile: I get the hard climbs over with my fresh legs and the easier part of the day should not be such a challenge, even when I am tired and weary. That at least is the theory.
I forewent breakfast as I wanted a sharp 7.30am start. Fuelled by last night’s dinner and food from my bag this morning I set off for the first five, flat miles and to the beginning of the climb. It was not too steep - I had cycled up steeper sections on the road alongside side Loch Ness - but it was going to be over three miles of relentless uphill. And that was just the start: this mountain section of my day was a steep ascent, some thirty miles of plateau and steep climbs at height, and then a long descent.
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| Back towards Ballachulish |
As I started the climb into the Glen Coe valley the peaks and mountains either side were trapping the morning cloud high above me and funnelling down a cold wind. I slowly rose towards the cloud, slow enough that it was disappearing more quickly than I was gaining height. And I was slow. But I was also in a steady rhythm as I ground out the pedal rotations and moved forwards and up against the wind. I stopped twice at the viewing points to enjoy the sights behind while another I cycled past as I was getting a round of applause from a coach group and felt I could not let them down. Everything was working in my favour: the weather was clearing, the views were beautiful and distracting and I was fresh legged and in a good state of mind knowing that once this first climb was over the worst would be behind me.
I eventually reached the plateau, wisps of cloud slightly above me skimming the hilltops and peaks either side, and began the long and varied cycle across the high ground. I cycled barren ground of bracken and dry grass. I cycled a wasteland of peat-black lochs reflecting the blue sky and the snow peppered peaks around. And I enjoyed a long, fast and sweeping descent to Bridge of Orchy, happily watching the miles quickly build until I once again had to gently climb again towards the very busy village of Tyndrum where my final descent was to begin.
After a long downhill to Inverarnan I joined the northern end of Loch Lomond. Unfortunately I was still on the main road and while it had not been too busy or disquieting it was becoming wearing after four hours on the go. I was also feeling the miles, especially as parts of the descent had required some effort to counter the wind and the rougher sections of road. In reality that played more into my mind than my body but it affected me nonetheless. I had also, rightly or wrongly, decided to get as far as Tarbet, ten miles along the Loch, before stopping for lunch.
Those ten miles proved hard work and even gentle inclines required effort. But I left Tarbet early afternoon with renewed energy, fuelled by a decent lunch in the Tarbet hotel - at first look the only building in the tiny waterside village. I also managed to get off the road. Last night the couple I talked to told me of a cycle path around the edge of the Loch and had it not been for them I would have missed it completely as it is largely unsigned. It is a varied mix of scrappy and decent track, roadside sections and other parts remote from the road and sheltered by trees. But either way it got me away from the traffic and by that stage of the day that counted for a lot. It also occasionally got me right down to the waterside where locals were enjoying the water and the small sandy beaches that the loch has to offer.
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| Loch Lomond |
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| Loch Lomond |
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| Alongside Loch Lomond |
I am now in Balloch, a busy little place at the far southern end of Loch Lomond that plays upon its proximity to the water. The river Leven that flows from the Loch and through the town has a decent looking track alongside it with a cyclepath sign to Glasgow. As that city is on my route tomorrow I think a little investigation is required tonight.
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